Biodynamic. 30% Clairette, 30% Roussanne, 30% Marsanne and 10% Grenache Blanc. This wine achieved cult status in France after Olivier Poussier (Sommelier du Monde 2000 and La Revue du Vin de France’s Rhône specialist) compared its quality to a white Hermitage. Haut Coustias is a selection from the Estate’s oldest, lowest-yielding white vines, which mostly face east in the chalkiest, coolest part of Oratoire’s La Montagne terroirs (the name given to the steepest area of Cairanne). The average age of the vines is 75 years, and these venerable plants produce a tiny 20 hl/ha on average. Each variety was harvested and vinified separately in concrete eggs before blending.
This is layered, complex and confidently full-bodied in the best spirit of this benchmark wine. Opening with a hint of reduction, the palate is long and tongue-coating, and embedded with deep citrus, aniseed and sweet herbal flavours (not dissimilar to the scent of the local gorse that frames the vineyards). The finish is powerful and long, underpinned by a nip of food-friendly phenolics. There is so much going on; you want to pour it into a decanter and see it evolve as you contemplate the bottle. We’ve said many a time that we know of very few Rhône whites that can match the depth, complexity and sheer presence on offer here. The price is misleading in the best sense.