We’ll just say it: Rioja is Spain’s most exciting region. Given its reputation for large-scale production of often underwhelming wines destined for supermarket shelves—and its historical propensity for championing process over place—that might be tough to believe. But where there’s smoke, there’s fire, and small, land-focused producers like Clos Ibai are fanning the flame. Since establishing Clos Ibai 14 years ago, Daniel Frías and Xabier Kamio have made it their mission to upend the status quo. They work small plots of old, low-yielding, gnarled, thick-trunked bush vines rooted in Rioja Alavesa’s high-altitude, chalky soils. When we say small, we mean it. Their largest plot―minifundia en español―is just one hectare; their smallest is 0.2 hectares. Rioja is full of these beautiful microplots, yet they’re difficult to farm. Done right, the output is scant but scintillating. It falls to dedicated growers like Daniel and Xabier to preserve these jewels of riojano viticulture, and they have our thanks! Farming is certified organic and biodynamic, and the two work tirelessly to improve soil health, using grass and cover crops to build diversity, retain humidity and enrich organic matter. When it comes to winemaking, they continue to swim against the tide. For the reds, there are lots of bunches, short macerations and maturations to preserve freshness, and Daniel favours concrete and steel vessels over oak barrels. The whites are buoyant and pure, unencumbered by oak or overt bâttonage. You won’t find Crianza, Reserva or Gran Reserva on these labels, but what you will find is transparent, expressive wines of depth, finesse, freshness and charm. Mainstream Rioja, eat your heart out. THE WINES Clos Ibai Rioja Blanco 2021 24535-750 $49.00 bt or $44.10/bt as part of a case Contact us to order Fruit for the Clos Ibai Blanco 2021 came from three vineyards in the Baños de Ebro, Villabuena de Álava and Elciego areas of Rioja Alavesa. The soils and altitude are similar across the sites―clay/limestone at 450 metres. Each plot is certified organic, and the average age of the vines is 40 years. This year’s blend is 78% Viura, with the balance a mix of other varieties, including Palomino, Malvasía and Garnacha Blanca. The parcels were picked by hand at the end of September and pressed as bunches to concrete and steel tanks for natural fermentation. The wine then matured on lees for eight months. “… the Clos Ibai white is always among the bodega's best wines. Waxy, perfumed and textured, it's a concrete fermented and aged cuvée that has a top note of kerosene, plenty of dry extract and a core of lime, citrus and wet stone.” 92 points, Tim Atkin, Rioja Special Report 2024 Clos Ibai Rioja Garnacha Blanca 2021 24536-750 $49.00 bt or $44.10/bt as part of a case Contact us to order The fruit comes from a single small plot of vines in the Baños de Ebro region in Rioja Alavesa. This site was planted in 2014 at 400 metres on clay/limestone soils. It is now certified organic, thanks to winemaker Daniel Frías and his team’s diligent work. The fruit was picked at the end of September and pressed as bunches to steel tanks for fermentation. Maturation on lees took place in tanks and barrels over eight months. “Left on skins for seven days before ageing in barrels and stainless steel, this late-picked Garnacha Blanca all comes from Elciego. Musk and honeysuckle aromas lead you into a palate of citrus, quince and yellow apple, with a nip of tannin and plenty of supporting acidity.” 90 points, Tim Atkin, Rioja Special Report 2024 Clos Ibai Rioja Tinto 2021 24537-750 $56.00 bt or $50.40/bt as part of a case Contact us to order Clos Ibai’s delicious, vibrant Tinto marries Tempranillo (70%) and Graciano (10%) with a very healthy 20% dollop of white fruit―Garnacha Blanca, Viura and Malvasía. The fruit is sourced from Daniel Frías’s small holdings of 40-year-old vines in the Baños de Ebro and Laguardia regions of Rioja Alavesa. The plots lie at 450 metres in clay/limestone soils, and they are certified organic. The fruit was harvested by hand and fermented as whole clusters in small open fermenters. The wine was pressed and matured in a combination of steel, concrete and neutral oak for 10 months. This is a deliciously vibrant and charming red, bursting with summer-fresh red and blue berry fruits, sweet spice and some earthy depth. The palate is juicy and generous, with soft tannins, a lovely line of acidity and a lingering close. Fabulous value.