Girlan

The Secret Garden: Vivid, Wallet-Friendly Whites and Fragrant Reds from the Italian Mountains
Girlan

For all the riches it has to offer the wine world, the alpine melting pot of Alto Adige remains a secret largely guarded within Italy’s borders. Founded a century ago as a small co-operative winery with 23 growers on their books, Girlan is based in the heart of Italy’s striking mountainous borderlands. Set amid the sawtooth limestone peaks of South Tyrol, this region’s wine culture, like its language and cuisine, has more in common with its neighbours Austria and Germany than with the rest of Italy. Combined with the cool, rocky alpine terroirs, these cultural influences play out in a wide range of distinctive wines: pulpy, mineral, mouth-watering whites and enticing, gastronomically slanted reds from local grapes such as Lagrein and Schiava.



Girlan was one of the first cantinas in the region to pay a premium based on the quality of grapes it receives. That charter has only been strengthened under the current direction of Oscar Lorandi and locally born cellarmaster Kofler. Today, they work with 200 families who farm around 215 hectares of vines, meaning the average grower’s holding is still under a single hectare. If the grower delivers grapes worthy of a premium Girlan bottling, they get a generous bonus. This incentive clearly goes a long way. Girlan holds a cast-iron reputation as one of the region’s front-runners and is a regular feature on the Gambero Rosso red carpet and Italy’s Michelin-starred wine programs.


The Adige produces many outstanding wines, the best of which deservedly sit in the upper price ranges. Many of these wines represent traditions that reach back centuries. So, to have a producer that offers such value and wines made with serious purpose is something to cherish—especially in days like these. The style of the wines is very much on point—aromatic, textural, snappy whites and delicious, fragrant reds with a bit of crunch—and each release speaks loudly of its mountainous, stony terroirs. For buyers looking to Europe for diversity and value, these count among the best-value wines we ship each year.

The Wines

Girlan Alto Adige Lagrein 2023
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Girlan Alto Adige Lagrein 2023

At its best, Lagrein can produce some of Alto Adige’s most striking reds, and this is one such example. Drawn from vineyards within the sandy Bassa Atesina terroir (a canton of the mountainous Südtiroler Unterland), this fine example is raised in large wooden barrels and concrete vats for five months.  It’s a gorgeous, accessible red with an enticing push-pull of sweet summer berries, savoury spice and graphite notes. Bottled with 13% alcohol, that same exuberance plays out on the fleshy, energetic palate featuring floral-scented fruit, juicy-ripe tannins and lively freshness. There’s also a nice twist of juicy-ripe tannins that will meld beautifully with the right food (grilled and roast meats, game and various hard cheeses). The finish is perfumed and moreish. Just delicious and unique!

Girlan Alto Adige Lagrein 2023
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Girlan Alto Adige Pinot Bianco 2023
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Girlan Alto Adige Pinot Bianco 2023

Like most producers in Alto Adige who want to sell some wine on the international market, Girlan makes a Pinot Grigio. It’s a good wine, but the truth is that this producer’s Pinot Bianco is miles more interesting—in our humble opinion. It is drawn from hand-picked fruit on Alto Adige’s mineral-rich hillsides of Cornaiano at altitudes ranging from 450 to 500 metres. The juice fermented in tank, with 10% going through malolactic conversion to add some flesh to the wine's cool Alpine bones. The weight and texture here are pinpoint; it’s a racy, pulpy, kaffir-lime, apple, and spiced pastry-scented quencher with lovely, pithy minerality and a zesty Alpine tang on the finish. Another genuine bargain from this over-delivering outfit.  

Girlan Alto Adige Pinot Bianco 2023
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Girlan Alto Adige Platt & Riegl Pinot Bianco 2023
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Girlan Alto Adige Platt & Riegl Pinot Bianco 2023

This pristine Pinot Bianco is drawn from some of Girlan’s highest and most esteemed vineyards in Cornaiano and Eppan Berg at nosebleed altitudes of 600 metres in the gravelly, mineral-rich soils of the Appiano Monte. Here, in the lee of snow-capped Mount Mendola, the sun-drenched, rocky soils and elevation make a considerable contribution to the style of the wine, as do the old vines, hand-harvesting, partial malolactic conversion and partial vinification in large oak (50% in 5,000-litre cask). These influences result in a more satin-textured, mineral wine than you typically expect from this variety.

Platt & Riegl has distinguished itself with 2 Bicchieri in the Gambero Rosso guide in the last five out of six years. Full of umami-rich verve and orchard fruit succulence, the 2023 is on great form. Think a cracking combination of chalky white stone fruits, citrus and mountain-stream freshness with a long, piercing, fragrant palate shot through with refreshing salty nuance and grapefruit bitterness. Top class. 


Girlan Alto Adige Platt & Riegl Pinot Bianco 2023
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Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Bianco 2023
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Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Bianco 2023

This juicy, drink-now aromatic white is a well-judged 45% Pinot Bianco blend with the remainder split between Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. All the fruit is grown at 448 metres (hence the name) on the mineral-rich hillside vineyards of Alto Adige's Cornaiano canton. The name not only refers to the altitude of the source vineyards but also to a local expression: ‘448’ or ‘quattro quattro otto’ is a local saying for ‘hurry up’ or ‘chop chop’. So, there's a bit of Tyrolean wordplay going on here.

This is a joy to drink—a super aromatic, juicy wine similarly weighted to a Cheverny or Pouilly Fumé. You can expect a mouthwatering, tangy wine with spring blossom, sliced apple, citrus peel and fresh-cut herbs on the nose and palate. In the mouth, it’s crunchy, racy and refreshing, but becomes more and more textural over time in the glass. Proper mountain wine and serious bang for buck on offer here.

Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Bianco 2023
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Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Rosso 2023
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Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Rosso 2023

From a vintage built on supple, vibrant fruit and juicy tannins, the 448 Rosso is drawn from grapes grown at around 448 metres above sea level in the Alto Adige. It's crafted from a blend of two indigenous Südtirol varieties—Lagrein and Schiava—along with Pinot Nero, with which the terroirs of Alto Adige have a proven affinity. The Lagrein comes from the deep, sandy soils of the Bassa Atesina (a warmer terroir, ideal for ripening this variety). The Pinot Nero and Schiava are grown on the hillside vineyards of Cornaiano in sunny, well-aerated vineyards. Raised in a mix of tank, barrels and concrete, the 2023 is a moreishly fleshy and fruity Alpine red drenched in berries, black cherry and red plums, a lick of herb and spice, all neatly folded within the fine, juicy texture. The finish has a lovely sweet-sour snap and sufficient tanginess to wash down woodfired pizza with aplomb. 

Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Rosso 2023
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“Innovation and a pioneering spirit have driven this historic Oltradige winery since its beginnings in 1923. The winery and cellarmaster Gerhard Kofler play a significant role in the Alto Adige winemaking and vineyard scenario. These are all major wines with great technique and personality.” Gambero Rosso



"This Cornaiano winery does not miss a beat and, year after year, is confirmed as one of the most close-knit and quality companies in South Tyrol. A successful team that combines tradition and innovative drive.” Slow Wine Italy

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