Biodynamic. Jo Landron’s La Louvetrie originates from soils rich in amphibolite, sand, clay and gneiss. It remains the estate’s only wine made from a blend of different sites (and includes younger-vine fruit from Landron’s top vineyards). The vines for this release are 15 to 30 years old and cropped low (for Muscadet) at just 50 hl/ha. It was bottled with a low dose of sulphur after maturing for eight to 12 months. It is a blinder of a wine packed with juicy fruit and vibrant Atlantic zing. Stony and creamy, this year’s release revels in ozone and ripe apple scents with generous, zesty, pithy lemon/lime fruit alongside a wash of salinity. A pourable zinger that reminds us that terrific-value French wine is not a thing of the past. 

François Chidaine is revered for his pristine Chenin Blancs from Montlouis and Vouvray. For a fraction of the price of those wines, here is a touch of Chidaine magic in the form of a Sauvignon cropped from vines in Chissay-en-Touraine and Saint-Julien-de-Chédon. These vineyards lie in the heart of the Touraine appellation, less than 10km upstream from Montlouis, and the viticulture is strictly organic and biodynamic. Alongside his own vineyards, Chidaine now also sources fruit from his grower son-in-law, Jean-Baptiste Bonnigal, in Limeray.

Fermented with a high degree of solids before maturation on lees—a little barrel-aged fruit adds complexity—you'll find engaging zesty citrus character here, along with a delicious touch of white flower and peach skin. As always with Chidaine, you get terroir first and varietal second. The palate is ripe and fleshy, crammed with stone fruits and chalky drive rather than the stereotypical characters we often associate with the variety. One of the keys to the Loire Valley’s outstanding 2022 vintage is the marriage between fleshy fruit texture and mouthwatering freshness. You’ll find all that here, alongside a snaking finish kissed by tangy, salty lemons. We can’t remember a more exciting release under this label.

Von Buhl’s entry-level wine is drawn from the estate’s great sandstone-rich vineyards around the villages of Deidesheim, Forst and Ruppertsberg. All the vineyards are certified organic. In the cellars, most of the juice naturally ferments in tank, with some parcels fermented in Von Buhl's oval dopplestück oak casks. Even at this level, the wine’s upbringing includes extended lees aging (six months on gross lees). There is no pumping and very little added sulphur. This is a terrific-value dry Riesling, with the juicy palate weight of the vintage proving a perfect foil for the rocky texture, mouthwatering, citrus-edged acidity and near-absolute-dry finish. It will, as always, work wonders by the glass (and bottle).

This relatively new addition to the Disznókő family highlights the versatility, individuality and sheer quality of Tokaj’s signature grape variety. This 100% Furmint was drawn from several plots on volcanic/clay soils, fruit that was always destined for dry-wine production. The grapes were harvested by hand with special care to remove botrytised berries, and the wine was vinified in tank.

In Disznókő’s customary style, this is all about purity and zesty freshness to capture the vibrant juiciness and minerality innate to this unique grape variety. With almond, white peach and fresh lime aromas and flavours combined with trademark racy dryness, there’s something akin to a vibrant, spicy Chablis going on here, especially in its flinty, salt-licked close. Serve as an aperitif, with seafood (it’s superb with oysters) or poultry/game bird dishes.

Biodynamic. While the roster of wines at this address here moves ever more to the left, it's the more classic estate wines that float our boat, including this blend of 75% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 10% Malbec. The fruit was all drawn from Peybonhomme’s limestone and clay soils in the Premières Côtes de Blaye (on the right bank overlooking the picturesque Gironde estuary). The wine was fermented using wild yeast and then mostly aged in concrete (10% fermented and matured in two- to three-year-old oak). The wine was bottled unfiltered.

Look out for deep and opulent blackcurrant fruit and charred meat, all draped over a backdrop of leather, spice, graphite and lovely mineral complexity. There are good refreshing tannins, too, so it is already immensely drinkable. This will match beautifully with anything you could think of pairing with traditional Bordeaux (we prefer lamb chops). As always, superb value.