Since moving his Chardonnay sourcing to the Denton vineyard, we have seen even greater mineral depth in both the Lambert Crudo and Estate Chardonnays. “The granite soils of the Denton vineyard are most evident in the Chardonnay wines,” Luke tells us. And what’s in the glass certainly backs up this claim. The Crudo fruit hails from the east/northeast-facing slope on the cone-shaped Denton vineyard. The vines are now 20 years old, sitting on those expressive soils of granitic sand over heavy granite boulders.

As is the norm, the fruit was whole bunch-pressed and spontaneously fermented with no temperature control. The wine went through full malolactic conversion and matured in old oak (2,000-litre French oak foudre) for three to four months. It was bottled without fining or filtration and with minimum sulphur.

It’s another scintillating release, a wine as composed, refined, chiselled and elegant as many with a loftier price tag. A picture of balance and harmony, it’s springtime fresh, with pure, ripe fruit flavours accented by white flowers and deep, stony minerals. It sits beautifully on the palate, composed and flowing to a long, seamless finish. Flat out gorgeous.

Sourced entirely from the granite-rich Denton vineyard, the 2023 Crudo Rosé is 95% Shiraz with a 5% lift from Nebbiolo off the same site. The vines have spent 16 years in these rocky soils, facing northwest from near the top of the cone-shaped slope. The fruit was pressed as whole bunches and fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tank. The wine completed malolactic conversion and was bottled unfined and unfiltered with minimal sulphur.

From the cool, low-cropping 2023 season, we agree with Luke’s assertion that this is the most refined and perfumed rosé he’s made. It’s got a lot in common with the bright, red-fruited and fragrant 2022 but feels more vinous and savoury and shows a touch more elegance and mineral appeal. It’s got al fresco dining written all over it.

This year’s Crudo Shiraz is the first release from Luke and Rosalind’s new vineyard source, the Martingale vineyard in Gruyere. Friend and owner Chris Kennedy established the vineyard in 2017 on a gentle, north-facing slope at 140 metres above sea level on the grey duplex soils of the Lower Yarra Valley. He and Luke are on the same page when it comes to farming practices, and the site is managed sustainably.

The clone of Shiraz planted on the site proved a drawcard for Luke. Unlike the lion’s share of Shiraz vines in the Yarra Valley, which are PT23 clone, the Martingale vineyard is planted to Tahbilk, a clone Luke worked with at the Tibooburra vineyard. It’s a clone that gives bunches with small round berries and rich wines with more body and mass than PT23. You can expect a delicious uptick in spice, structure and savoury nuance from 2023.

As always, Luke takes a no-frills approach in the cellar. The fruit was destemmed, and spontaneous fermentation occurred in an old 5,000-litre oak cask before being bottled without fining or filtration. The results are super impressive: it’s a high-toned, captivating, layered Shiraz, svelte and silky in weight with deep dark fruits mingled with spicy pepper notes and earthy complexity. Joyful stuff.

The fruit for this Syrah was sourced from the west side of the Denton vineyard, where it enjoys more afternoon sun. Like the Chardonnay, the vines are located at the top of the hill where the topsoil depth is negligible, and yields are much lower than is the case for the Crudo vines, which are on the lower part of the slope.

Luke tells us that one of the most valuable things he’s learned over his career is “how to extract the best out of bunch”, and those of you familiar with his reds will know this to be true (2022 saw an 80% whole bunch component). His ferments are fast—usually 10 to 12 days for the Syrah. Rosalind and Olive (Luke’s daughter) managed pigéage, doing so twice a day and really working the cap. It was then pressed to tank to naturally settle before it was racked to large, old foudre.

Luke has found a new gear with Syrah from Denton; you can expect more structure and potency than ever before. It’s vibrantly perfumed with berry fruits, smoky graphite and savoury spices. The brooding depth flows through to a richly textured palate charged with taut acidity and assertive tannins. The finish is as long as a pair of Tex Perkins’ jeans. Intense, yet full of light and energy, it’s not hard to see why Luke Lambert considers this one of, if not the finest, Syrah he has released.