Biodynamic. Hélène Thibon’s small-batch white comes from a blend of low-cropped, hand-harvested Roussanne, Viognier and Clairette. There’s more Roussanne this year than usual (barrel-fermented and zero malo). The Viognier was raised entirely in cement and stainless-steel vats, while the Clairette was fermented in Stockinger demi-muids.

The latest release is another example of how sophisticated the whites from this part of France can be in the right hands. Aromatic, silky, and deftly woven, the contoured 2022 combines flavours of stone fruit, apricot kernel, citrus leaf and hawthorn blossom with impressive length and poise. It’s a deeper release this year, its fleshy palate countered by refreshing acidity and mouth-watering grip.

Hélène Thibon suggests serving this with “… chèvre fleshier cheese, or classic Mediterranean fish dishes. This is a white wine that can hold its own against a bit of garlic (though don’t get carried away).” From experience, we’ll throw terrine and grilled fish into the mix. Bon appétit.

Biodynamic. This disarmingly pretty rosé is drawn from the estate’s younger vines—spread across a selection of Mas de Libian’s rocky terroirs—and comprises one-third each of Grenache, Counoise and Syrah. Using the provençal model (although we should note these grapes have bags more flavour than those used to make 99% of Côtes de Provence), all three varieties were slowly pressed into tank after a short maceration and then fermented with wild yeasts. In our opinion, it is simply one of southern France's most appealing, mineral and delicious rosés. The new release is savoury and mouth-wateringly crisp, with the enticing scents of fresh berries and wild herbs and a silky, high-definition palate flecked by flavours of Burlat cherry and chalky tang. Get on the saucisson.

Biodynamic. Sourced from an assortment of different terroirs—clay/limestone, galets roulés and sandy parcels—Mas de Libian’s consistently delicious vin de soif is based on high-grown Grenache (75%) with roughly equal amounts of Mourvèdre and Syrah (all destemmed). There is also a little fruit from the estate’s decade-old plantings of two southern Rhône natives, Counoise and Vaccarèse and a splash of Couston (the natural offspring of Grenache and Aubun Noir).

Pétanque refers to the popular provençal game of boules, and this wine is correspondingly built for splashing around with friends in casual settings. There was a short, five-day maceration, and the wine was raised exclusively in concrete tanks. It was bottled unfiltered, with only a smidge of sulphur employed. Delicious, crunchy freshness is the name of the game here—a brilliant high-country perfume of blue fruits, pulverised graphite and soft violet before the palate rolls off the bat with bouncy, thirst-quenching juiciness and sweet garrigue. It tastes like the nitrous oxide of the southern Rhône—the Ardèche in liquid form. Another vivacious Vin de Pétanque (is there any other?) and born to go with anything off a smoking grill.

Biodynamic. This gem has become one of the smartest buys in our portfolio. It’s drawn from 35-year-old biodynamically managed vines rooted in a range of Mas de Libian’s highland Ardèche soils: some galets roulés (rolled alluvial ‘pudding’ stones); some sandy clay; and some lower-lying parcels on limestone soils. Give or take a few bunches, the blend is 75% Grenache and 25% Syrah, co-fermented (Hélène’s father once told her, “The earlier you consummate the marriage, the better the relationship!”) and raised in a mix of Stockinger foudre and cement vats.

Biodynamic. This wine is named in honour of the 11th century Persian poet, philosopher, booze-hound and mathematician, Omar Khayyam. This vibrant, supple bottling comes entirely from a single highland plot which is above the house at the top of the Saint Marcel d'Ardèche plateau. The site is littered with galets roulés and was planted between 1960 and 1980—mostly to Grenache, with 10% Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre. Some 30% of the fruit was aged in large casks on lees, bringing a seductive, supple and layered texture to the bright, cleansing structure.

Again, the breezy character of the vintage shines through here; this is fresh and vibrant, brimming with purity of fruit and crunchy energy. It is also charming and perfumed, with bright blue fruits and touches of pepper and liquorice.

Biodynamic. La Calade is the Mourvèdre-dominant cuvée of the Mas de Libian line-up, finessed by 10% Grenache—a unique wine that we believe deserves a wider audience. Granted, it is labelled as a humble Côtes du Rhône, yet it offers the depth and class usually associated with a top Gigondas, Rasteau or Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Calade is old Provençal patois for a steep, stony path, which gives you an insight into the terroir for this wine. It comes from a very low-yielding parcel of 50-year-old vines (grown in galets roulés) that run between 1.5 and three metres deep. Almost half of this wine is vinified in glass and porcelain jars, which Hélène believes brings more freshness than oak or steel, as well as helping to avoid reduction. The remainder sees time in 600L Stockinger demi-muids (oak is the servant, not the master) and cement.

The 2021 is a compelling wine with livewire energy, cool freshness, perfumed elegance and densely concentrated and complex flavours. Finely woven aromas of bright fruits, earth, pepper spice and some salty minerality are jointed to beautifully integrated oak, acidity and al dente tannins; it strikes an impressive balance. In our experience, few Mourvèdre wines from the south combine refreshment and satisfaction like this. It will taste even better with a light decant and a ribeye cooked over flame.