If you want to take on the world, you need to pick the right team. In Huw Kinch—one of the most thoughtful and deliberate winemakers we know—Pyramid Valley co-owner Steve Smith MW made an inspired call. He made clear from the outset Pyramid Valley’s intention to seal its spot as one of the world’s great producers of cool-climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. They have all the tools, from their excellent rocky terroirs and ideal micro-climates to the precise, hardworking ethic in their vineyards and cellar. And with Kinch and viticulturist Nick Paulin, Pyramid is over-endowed in the talent department. These releases are the work of a team on flying form.Pyramid calls these two collections Colours and Pastures—but banish any image of broad brushstrokes and distant fields; here, everything is vividly detailed and finely etched. The Pastures Collection’s chief focus is Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, made in the same earth-to-glass spirit as Pyramid’s iconic Botanical Collection. These releases are from 2021, a season in which Waipara frosts wiped out the Waikari home vineyard. Yields elsewhere were decimated, but where there was life, there was more than hope. “The rest of the season was pretty easy,” Kinch tells us with a rueful smile. The small crops that came through for the North Canterbury Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were bright, ripe and intense. This year’s Central Otago Pinot Noir is drawn exclusively from Manata, Pyramid’s organic site in Lowburn. Paulin—the team’s biodynamic specialist who apprenticed under Blair Walter at Felton Road—lives close by, giving it the same care lavished upon the Waikari site, where the Kinch family reside. Then there’s a limited single-site Sauvignon Blanc from the Weaver family’s Churton vineyard—a Marlborough Sauvignon grown with the ambition to rival Sancerre (ambition which, on this evidence, is fully realised).With the Colours Collection, Pyramid Valley goes into exploratory mode. In the cooler 2022 season, Kinch and the team let the fruit hang for longer than usual before taking in grapes with natural grace and balance. The stylistic playfulness of these wines belies a typically attentive respect for site, fruit quality and detail. That rosé, by the way…