Biodynamic. This site takes its name from the vineyard’s abundance of dandelions (dent-de-lion—‘lion’s tooth’—in French). The original 0.4 hectares of vines were planted in 2000 at a density of 11,111 vines per hectare, with a further 2.8 hectares planted between 2018 and 2020, though the majority of the fruit for this wine (89%) comes from the 2000 plantings. The biodynamically farmed Lion’s Tooth is a steeply inclined, east-facing site on soils described as having a “nut and crumb structure and great mineral fertility”. It’s the classic limestone and clay of the area but with a higher balance of clay (30%) than Field of Fire. 

The winemaking mirrors that of Field of Fire, yet the differences in the signature of place are apparent. The compelling 2022 Lion’s Tooth shows how a slight change in aspect and soil impacts the finished wine in these edgy, cool-climate vineyards. Combined with lengthy hang-time facilitated by the cool La Niña growing season, soil and site distinction pave the way for a powerfully built Lion’s Tooth of drive, tension and dense but nuanced flavour. The notes below capture the wine’s alluring charm, perfect pace and profound complexity. 

The fruit came off the vine on 28th April and soaked on skins for two hours after crushing before being pressed to old French barrels for natural fermentation. Maturation occurred in barrel on light lees for 12 months, followed by five months in tank before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. 

Biodynamic. Field of Fire takes its name from the type of grass that grows among the vines in this gently sloped, southeast-facing, clay-limestone plot nestled in the northeast corner of the property, sheltered by a belt of trees and a range of hills behind it. The original 0.3 hectares were planted in 2000 at a density of 11,111 vines per hectare. Plantings were expanded by a further 1.2 hectares between 2018 and 2020, though only the original 2000 plantings and 0.3 hectares from 2018 go into this wine. Field of Fire has a cooler, rockier profile than Lion’s Tooth, and though soils vary throughout the plot, there is a prevalence of shallow (10-15cm) glauconitic clays over the well-drained limestone bedrock. In comparison, Field of Fire typically shows a tighter mineral core and athletic structure cloaked by layered, complex flavour. 

The fruit was picked on 29th April, a day after Lion’s Tooth, and soaked on skins for four hours after crushing before being pressed to old French barrels for natural fermentation. Maturation occurred in barrel on light lees for 12 months, followed by five months in tank before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. We won’t add much to the reviews below―Bennie and Brookes have nailed it―only to assert that this is elite Chardonnay, worthy of consideration among the best the New and Old World have to offer. Scintillatingly pure with immaculate texture and length for days. 

Biodynamic. Like the Chardonnay vineyards, Pyramid Valley’s Waikari Pinot Noir sites were planted in 2000 at 11,111 vines per hectare on slopes with clay/limestone soils. Earth Smoke is an expansive slope that faces east and is situated southwest of Lion’s Tooth and north of its sibling Pinot Noir site, Angel Flower. The soils are richer than Angel Flower, described by Steve Smith as “strong and beautifully structured”―there’s a high proportion of clay (30%) over the limestone bedrock. The name comes from the nickname given to fumitory, a plant of the poppy family that thrives in this 0.85-hectare plot. Although both wines share DNA, the later-picked Earth Smoke is typically the more structured and darker of the two, with more fruit weight and savoury undertones to go with its tender, fine tannins. 

The fruit was picked and sorted by hand, then destemmed and fermented gently using infusion rather than extraction techniques. After 21 to 27 days on skins, the wine matured in French oak for 18 months before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. 

The combination of sunlight, high UV, moderate temperatures, and decent humidity is nirvana for temperate plants. Pyramid’s vines respond by harnessing all this energy to ripen grapes that are full of the delicate aromas, beautiful flavours and refined phenolics that are the benchmark for fine, cool-climate Pinot Noir (and often lost in warmer, more stressful climates). The 2022 Earth Smoke is resplendent with this energy and the unique stamp of its part of the Waikari vineyard. It’s a wine that screams of place, composed and pure, with elegant texture and expansive presence―just superb. 

Biodynamic. Angel Flower is the prettiest of many synonyms for yarrow, a grassland and pasture plant with delicate, fennel-like leaves and a brilliant mass of white flowers. Yarrow is the basis of the biodynamic preparation 502 and is strongly associated with mobilising natural sulphur and potassium in the soil. 

Planted in 2000 at 11,111 vines per hectare, the 0.7-hectare Angel Flower plot is the cooler, more exposed Pinot block on the Pyramid Valley property. It’s a stunning, steeply sloped, north-facing block located at the southern tip of the estate. The soils are shallow and coarse with less clay (15%) than Earth Smoke, which Huw Kinch says enhances the wine’s aromatic profile. By comparison, you can expect similar weight and shape to Earth Smoke, with heightened floral aromatics and a silky slip through the palate. 

The winemaking mirrors Earth Smoke, so the difference derives purely from site and soil. The fruit was picked and sorted by hand, then destemmed and fermented gently using infusion rather than extraction techniques. After 21 to 27 days on skins, the wine matured in French oak for 18 months before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. It’s a dazzlingly good Pinot: generous, full and complex with lovely balance between savoury elements, pure fruit and mineral tension. Sheer class. 

This is the second release of Pyramid Valley’s Snake’s Tongue Pinot Noir from the estate’s impressive Mānatu vineyard, located in the Lowburn sub-region of Central Otago. Planted in the mid-2000s by Jean and Roger Gibson, the former Lowburn Ferry property sits on a gentle, north-facing slope in the foothills of the Pisa Ranges. A key trait of the site is its soils: loess over deep silts that have developed pedogenic lime deposits. With high pH and suitability for growing world-class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, these soils proved the main drawcard for winemaker Huw Kinch, viticulturist Nick Paulin and owner Steve Smith MW. 

The 10.2-hectare property is home to a patchwork of Pinot Noir clones—Abel, 667, 777, 114, 115, 943, 828, 115 and clone 5—playing into Kinch’s preference for clonal mix in the vineyard and the winery. The Snake’s Tongue block is a 1.9-hectare plot in the southeast corner of the vineyard, with this release drawn from a 0.7-hectare parcel of Abel clone planted in 2007. (The remaining 1.2 hectares comprises new high-density vines—clones 828, 943 and 115—planted in 2018/2019.)

In contrast to the Pinot fruit from the cooler Waikari property (Earth Smoke and Angel Flower), Mānatu’s Pinot Noir sees more sunshine. It has a core of power and intensity not found in the more delicate and restrained northern fruit. Kinch uses whole bunches and new oak in the Mānatu wines to harness this inherent power, techniques he tells us would overpower the Waikari wines—yet another example of his thoughtful, site-based approach. 

Fermented in an open-top concrete tulip, with 33% whole bunches and as much whole berry as possible, the wine matured in 30% new French barrels for 12 months, followed by a further six months in neutral oak before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. We needn’t add anything to the Bennie and Brookes notes below, but it’s hard to resist piling on the praise for this seductive, deeply cast, full-throttle Pinot Noir. There’s plenty to love now, but the bold flavour and structure will stand this in good stead for years to come, should you have the patience. A wine of pure, hedonistic pleasure.